High Street, Cardiff. 029 2167 5746 / www.seafood-shack.co.uk
Food **** Atmosphere *****
Despite taking inspiration from the American-style food shacks in Florida and California, Seafood Shack does its best to show off the seafood that plays such an important part in Wales’ national cuisine, and is shamefully underrepresented in the Welsh capital. Situated in the former location of Cranes, Seafood Shack’s transformation is the first thing to strike you. The plan is rather ambitious: it features a so-called ‘shanty tavern’ that provides a good range of cocktails, beers, spirits and wines; a nautically themed restaurant that serves up a range of traditional and innovative dishes; a champagne and oyster bar, and I heard mention of a takeaway area as well, I assume for well-done fish and chips.
My dining partner and I are swiftly shown our comfy table, where we choose from the extensive wine list, and although we went for a reasonably cheap one, we were astounded by the quality of the wine. I first ask to try the Menai Mussel Pot, taken from an area internationally famed for its seafood, and especially its mussels. It was prepared in a white wine and cream sauce that perfectly complimented their delicate flavour. My partner chose woodland garlic mushrooms, which were also well flavoured with just the right level of garlic.
Next up, the mains, and although we were told that there was a limited selection when we went in mid-June due to them not wanting to rush the launch, there was still a very large selection to choose from. My partner chooses salmon on the ‘plancha’, a type of grill, served with a white wine sauce and chips from the Victorian chip bar, mushy peas and tartar sauce. I couldn’t resist the lobster burger, made using sustainable lobster from Tenby. It was quite a sight to behold, topped with crispy calamari and guacamole, this wasn’t a way I’d ever have thought of preparing lobster, and it works! The lobster is juicy and despite my expectations, there wasn’t too much going on on the plate.
The Seafood Shack is an ambitious celebration of our important seafood heritage. Plus, it’s not too steep for seafood and is a good venue for a wide variety of occasions.
words LUKE OWAIN BOULT