Ruth Seavers picks up the baton to find out what goes into a damn fine cup o’joe.
The rise in coffee culture in Britain now means we all have our own personal preference for our own watering hole when it comes to our coffee. But what actually makes for a good cup? We can make it pretty well at home nowadays, with mini barista bars and steamers popping up in kitchens everywhere. So why do we still frequent cafés so much?
There are so many different variations of beans, technique, farming, harvesting and roasting that the answer to “what makes a good coffee?” is one of vast variation and opinion, and quite philosophical in essence. Varietals (types of beans) are known by the region they come from, such as Colombia or Java. There are two main types, Arabica and Robusta, the former being more popular. Arabica coffee beans come from predominantly Latin America or Ethiopia; Robusta beans southeast Asia and west Africa.
Starting with the base ingredients, the seeds of coffee fruit are what we commonly refer to as coffee beans. After the country of origin and roast, the next most important characteristic of coffee is the method of process. The dry process gives a slight earthiness to the taste; in wet processing, the bad coffee cherries drop to the bottom, giving a fuller, rounder taste.
If you want to get technical about what makes a good coffee, “cupping” is the professional analysis. There isn’t really a metric: it’s more about identifying the individual characteristics of beans, processing and taste. The cupping process starts by pouring water over the grounds at 91˚C and 96˚C, so the coffee does not burn and the aroma changes as it touches. The second smell test is done in the cupping process to identify the notes of the coffee, which should now show a smooth creamy foam. This is when you can see what quality and taste the coffee will produce – as extraction and taste changes, the longer it is left soaking in the grinds.
Because the coffee bean that we roast is actually the seed of a fruit, many coffees include a floral or more fruit-like aroma. Varying greatly in taste, from rich and berry-like to citrus, this pairs with the ‘sugar browning’ of the beans – when amino acids and sugars are exposed to heat, bringing out tastes such as roasted nuts or cocoa.
Then it’s down to individual preference. How coarse do you want your grind? Extra coarse is used for cold brewing and French press. Medium for drip, fine for your staple espresso and extra-fine grind for Turkish coffee. Bitter, sweet, strong, weak: it all depends on the different variants in bean, process, preparation and preference for your roast.
Blending coffee also contributes to taste variation; blending different roasts from around the world to create individually tailored tastes is a fine art. Professional coffee roasters select beans that they think will complement each other. If a bean on its own lacks body and flavour, but also possess notes you wish to conserve, you can pair it with other blends to complement each other. Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference.