Any South Indian restaurant opening in south Wales is inevitably going to draw comparisons with what Anand George has done. Without his work at Purple Poppadom, and currently at Tukka Tuk, our options would be far less rich: you can see his influence in many other subsequent businesses. So Little Kochi, recently opened on Cardiff’s Albany Road, has to get it right. And quickly.
To their credit, they sidestep any multi-course tasting options and focus on a deliberately short menu of Keralan classics. Five vegetarian, five fish and six meat: there’s something for everyone here, right down to spicing adjusted to your preference.
They’re clearly doing something right, with a busy hum to the place and tables around us clearly enjoying their meals. A staff shortage on the night we visit means service is clearly under pressure. It’s a tough night for a young business to be understaffed, with almost every table full on a dank Wednesday evening in Roath, but everyone handles the challenge with aplomb.
Curled little poppadoms – the lemon chutney is a standout, noticeably sour and pungent – are an encouraging start. Chicken comes with three marinades: mint and coriander, the vivid scarlet of red chilli and cream cheese. Beef roast, a street food favourite and also available as a main, is gently coconutty and done very well here.
Mains are good, too. Lamb in a richly creamy munna is tender and plentiful; pepper chicken lives up to its name with a robust punch and a lingering heat even at a ‘medium’ level. The only let down is mushroom thoran: its flavours are good, but they are overcooked and lack any bite. It’s the only bum note in a meal which delivers on its promised flavours.
This is a welcome addition to the area; Cardiff continues to be a hotspot for good Southern Indian cooking.
Little Kochi, 78 Albany Rd, Cardiff.
Info: 029 2233 8265 / littlekochi.com
words JONATHAN SWAIN
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