Ogmore Beach, Vale Of Glamorgan.
twitter.com/thetwoanchors / facebook.com/thetwoanchors
Food **** Atmosphere *****
In the far corner of the car park, where the River Ogmore meets the sea, Dusty Knuckle Pizza’s Phil Lewis and Jon White, formerly of Nine Yards Café, have sparked up a beachfront barbie which is blazing the Glamorgan Heritage coastline food scene.
The rules are simple at The Two Anchors: if the sun is shining and the boys have fresh fish, then it’s likely game on. Follow them on social media – their menus only go online on the day. In recent weeks they’d posted pictures online of Goan fish curries and seafood risottos; on the afternoon we rocked up, there were neither, but the choices were still hugely appealing; scallops, rainbow trout salad, mackerel in a brioche bun and some Cajun hake fish tacos too.
I went for the tacos (£6) for my main event, having smashed through a few scallops (£2.50 each), cooked in a sensational garlic and laverbread butter, topped with samphire and served up on a sea shell. Padron peppers (£2) were a punchy pintxos-style side dish. When the tacos came, there were two of them which was extremely pleasing, as was the spiced mango purée and coriander that came with them.
The Two Anchors light up their custom-made, cast iron barbeque around 4pm. By 4.30 the heat is on, and they sell until they sell out, or until it gets dark, whichever comes first. They always sell out, I’m told so get there early. Few places in Wales allow you to munch your food just a few feet from the sea. My only criticism is they have no alcohol license, so take a chilled bottle of wine or a few ice-cold beers with you – and a blanket, as food this good needs washing down as you watch the waves. Final tip: We got our dessert in the ice-cream van parked next door which was a lovely way to round things off.
As the sky turns orange over Ogmore it’s clear the Two Anchors have the local crowds caught hook, line and sinker. JOSEPH TOWNS