83 Pontcanna Street, Cardiff. 029 2023 2226 / www.milkwoodcardiff.com
Food ***** Atmosphere ****
For 20 years, and until a few months ago, this restaurant was formerly Cibo. It remains an intimate setting, though, with an attentive maître d’, Andrew, on hand. Milkwood offers four starters, main courses and desserts apiece: although this may seem slender choice compared with other restaurants, the quality and attention to detail in presentation is sublime.
An offering of celeriac soup from the chef was served in a little pottery cup and tasted delicious. Starters included crab bisque with mussels, gnocchi and samphire; and smoked ham hock with boudin noir (black pudding served in breadcrumbs), egg pea and mustard. Our mains: Creedy Carver duck breast, chicory and hazelnut with duck tortellini and orange carrot; and seared bavette steak with oxtail, broccoli, salt-baked celeriac, pickled mushrooms and oyster. The combination of flavours worked excellently in both cases.
Dessert choices are described prosaically: “damson, blackberry and hazelnuts”; “chocolate, cherry”. The latter, especially, does itself an injustice three artfully presented chocolate desserts on one plate along with fresh cherries soaked in sherry. It’s proved enough of a favourite that while most of the menu changes on a weekly basis, this isn’t going anywhere soon.
Milkwood’s support of local food charities in the area also do them credit. The veg for one menu item, the Bute Park Salad, is provided and delivered to the restaurant by a charity based in said park, and although a little more expensive, the outlay to a good cause. The restaurant also provides a lunch menu of two courses for £15 or three for £19.
words PATRICIA O’SULLIVAN
