THE GALLERY ****

2 Broad Street, Barry. 01446 735300 / www.the-gallery-restaurant.co.uk

Having opened for a couple of years back in the early 2000s, The Gallery is now in its second phase. At that time, the vision and dining experience was perhaps a little too ambitious for Barry, but now it’s reopened with a fresh look, a stunning bar area and a carefully thought-out menu. The emphasis still lies on quality ingredients, fresh local produce and dishes cooked and made on the premises. Homemade breads, sauces and dishes all feature heavily, as do a list of suppliers based in the Vale.

Seasonal produce is a big thing at The Gallery and the menu changes weekly to reflect this. We dined in mid-June when some of the choices included broccoli and Perl Las soup and rabbit and pigeon terrine with pickled mushrooms. We went for the asparagus and crab cakes and the smoked mackerel with a trio of beetroot. For mains we plumped for Trealy Farm Cassoulet Castlenaudry with a crisp salad, and a herb-crusted pollack with panzanella salad – a salad of bread, tomatoes, sometimes onions and basil, dressed with olive oil and vinegar. Other options include braised lamb shank, samphire and broad beans and sorrel gnocchi with broccoli and sea spinach; all very tempting. The desserts are homemade, and although the Merlin bread and butter pudding evaded us as we were very full, we did share a cherry pavlova which hit the spot perfectly.

For the quality and inventiveness of dishes, the genuine care and attention that goes into all the prep, the price is more than worth it – two courses cost £18.50pp and three courses came in at £23.50. With a passion for good food, a series of wine tastings, guest celebrity chef evenings and at some point a microbrewery in the pipeline, The Gallery deserves to be supported. ANTONIA LEVAY