Wales’ first World Cup in 64 years is almost upon us. But are the controversies that have consumed this year’s winter tournament putting a damper on the Red Wall’s spirit? Matthäus Bridge hits the streets to take a measure of things… 

“We’ve always said that everybody is welcome here,” Qatar’s World Cup chief Nasser Al Khater told Sky News’ Rob Harris. “All we ask is that people respect our culture.” The controversy surrounding the first Middle Eastern host nation has been impossible to ignore, and for most Welsh fans, a bittersweet pill to swallow. After the Gulf country’s bid to host the 2022 finals was accepted, critics have highlighted the country’s appalling human rights records, the growing numbers of illegal migrant workers’ deaths, and protestors sentenced to life imprisonment.

Nevertheless, the tournament is around the corner this November. Ahead of kickoff, I spoke to members of Wales’ Red Wall to get their thoughts on what is arguably the most talked-about World Cup in decades – the final tournament of which the country will be part of for the first time since 1958.

Although the Qatari government have relaxed its rules regarding alcohol and public displays of affection, the same cannot be said for the country’s stance on the LGBTQ+ community. As a result of this, groups such as The Rainbow Wall have publicly boycotted the tournament as a matter of its members’ safety and fear of potential arrest.

“It’s typical of Wales to qualify for the worst World Cup location-wise,” one S4C journalist told me. “The human rights record in the country is shocking and I don’t blame any fan for not wanting to go to Qatar because of it.”

The reality of the situation is far from perfect and many supporters stressed their conflicted feelings. “I’m not happy that it’s in Qatar; all the fans are being priced out and it’s blatant sports-washing,” one told me. “But I’m over the moon that we’ve qualified.”

Analytical research conducted by The Punters Page has revealed that Welsh fans travelling to World Cup will spend an average of £10,027 – clearly, an unrealistic amount of money for any football fan to spend to follow their country overseas. “Qatar is inaccessible and prohibitively expensive for travelling fans. It feels like absolutely everyone has been shafted by the decision to host it there,” another added.

After such a long wait for Cymru, it seems typical that – on top of everything else – for the first time in the tournament’s history, the games will be played from Sun 20 Nov to Sun 18 Dec: the inaugural winter World Cup. “I’ll be in the office for our game against Iran. I can’t call in sick because my boss knows I’m a diehard fan!” one Red Wall devotee joked to me. It’s hard to not see the funny side in situations like that, but the problem remains for most of us: how are we going to enjoy these games?

Though individual venues have made plans for them, Cardiff Council is yet to confirm plans for huge fanzones similar to the ones we saw during the 2016 Euros – but is “considering all options.” Many of the fans I spoke to accepted this and maintained that, regardless of the time and weather, Cardiff will have a fantastic atmosphere: “I think you’ll see chanting in the streets, flares and a sea of red. Just like any Cymru game at the Cardiff City Stadium but bigger and better.”

Animosity towards this tournament is shared on a global scale, but given such a dark cloud has been cast over the World Cup before a single ball has been kicked, Welsh fans maintain that this is still football, after all. “Hopefully, it will promote our distinctive nationhood, culture, and language to a brand new audience. This is history, and it’s putting us on the map.”

words MATTHÄUS BRIDGE