CORRAN RESORT AND SPA ****

East Marsh, Laugharne. 01994 427417 / www.thecorran.com

Set within bucolic marshland on the fringes of picturesque Laugharne, the recently refurbished Corran Resort And Spa has been lovingly brought back to life with a beautiful contemporary refit which does nothing to take away from the building’s original 16th century charm.

Alongside its tempting offer of spa relaxation and long walks in the wilds of its surrounding countryside, The Corran’s restaurant is bright and inviting with a vintage conservatory feel and views across their walled garden. Settling down early in time for the start of service, I chose a light and bright smoked haddock mousse combined with crab meat and chilli. A fantastic side of coriander and lemon mayonnaise really helped the dish jump off the plate and tingle with flavour. The subtle chilli kick was tempered by the tang of the mayonnaise and the smoky flavour of the fish was in no way over powering or out of place.

My main course swiftly followed, and if it’s true that we eat with our eyes, I was already finished and waiting for desert by the time I’d reached for my fork. I opted for the pan-seared duck breast – beautifully cooked and pink through – with a pomegranate and walnut sauce (although this turned out to be less of a sauce and more like pomegranate with some walnuts) and some perfectly cooked baked new potatoes and vegetables. Packed with simple flavours, but excellently executed, I thoroughly enjoyed the duck, although for me, the unsubtle sweet tartness of the pomegranate tended to jar with the meat and walnut combination.

As with every other course, it was tricky to decide what to choose for dessert, but plumping for the chocolate torte, I was treated to beautifully crumbly pastry and deep chocolate flavourwhich made for a winning dessert and a perfect end to a very enjoyable meal. GARETH LUDKIN