CULLEY’S RESTAURANT
The Exchange Hotel, Mount Stuart Square, Cardiff Bay
029 2010 7050 / exchangehotelcardiff.co.uk/bar-restaurant
Food ***** Atmosphere ****
Culley’s is named after the charismatic Mr Richard Palethorpe Culley, a local philanthropist and entrepreneur who inspired the restaurant and bar after securing a catering contract with the hotel and transforming it into a lavish restaurant over 100 years ago. Images and stories of the man himself are evident around this new restaurant, housed inside the Exchange Hotel and open since December last year.
The bygone days of this era have been meticulously recreated today after months of remodelling, the huge bar and open cellar revealing an abundance of selected wines and spirits, delivered by resident sommelier Marius. When ordering, seek out his expertise.
Aperitif out the way, we set about ordering. The classic scotch egg was recommended so it was a given, as was salt and pepper calamari with aioli and lemon. Mains arrived in the form of baked salmon with a chorizo, chive and butterbean stew, boosted further by kohlrabi and gremolata sauce; my veggie dining partner had mozzarella, tomato & basil tortellini in pesto, bocconcini, rocket and chilli. Both were beautifully presented and memorable – without doubt one of the best meals we’ve had out for a long time.
Culley’s has certainly lifted the bar for Cardiff Bay dining on all levels: on this particular evening there was live music which remained in the ‘pleasantly background’ category. We were also treated to several sample wines which complimented each course, kept informed in this respect by Marius throughout. Desserts came: respectively, a bara brith bread and butter pudding, and coffee with a selection of mini chocolate desserts. A fragrant Akasshi-Tai Shiraume dessert wine tied a ribbon on the whole package.
If I had more space, I would carry on waxing lyrical about Culley’s, but it is best in person, as the aim is to give Cardiff a dining experience in beautiful surroundings, in a building which has truly undergone a transformation and is now being used as it should be.
words Antonia Levay