Clarence House, Clarence Place, Newport. 01633 449948 / www.mojothefoodbar.com
Food ***** Atmosphere *****
Mojo sets itself apart from other eateries in more ways than one. Apart from being situated off the beaten track in Clarence House (home of the driving theory test), it isn’t a restaurant, it’s a ‘foodbar’: an establishment where food and drinks are of equal importance.
My plus one and I were greeted at the door, shown to plush seats and offered a pre-dinner apéritif by award-winning mixologist Christos. With such an extensive drinks menu – there were 20 different gins and 10 different tonic waters listed – the choice was hard. I opted for a Strawberry and Black Pepper Collins, which was delicious and a definite sign of things to come.
The choice of food is equally diverse, with six or 10-course taster menus and an a la carte, each with its own wine or cocktail pairing. We chose the larger taster menu, which started with canapes and ended with petit fours, taking in delights such as goat’s cheese mousse, torched mackerel and matured beef sirloin on the way, accompanied by a fine wine or port, perfectly arranged on large plates on the stark white tablecloths. Mojo has three kitchens and all food is sourced locally and freshly prepared on the premises. Average waiting time between courses was 12 minutes, though that extended to 20 when, unbeknown to us diners, the Michelin-star chef’s wife went into labour – a small hiccup that didn’t affect the quality of the food. Besides, people were not in a hurry.
Mojo is cool, from the air conditioning, to the centre bar, to the Molton Brown toilet soap: a far cry from the run-of-the-mill chaotic fast food restaurants on the other side of the bridge. It doesn’t come cheap but it is an experience: the atmosphere is friendly, the music ambient, the staff knowledgeable and professional.
LYNDA NASH