Quay Street, Cardiff. 029 2022 7972 / www.greenwoodandbrowncardiff.co.uk
Triumphantly transformed from its previous incarnation as The Model Inn, Greenwood & Brown takes its new name from the original wine merchant owners who sold the pub to Brains Brewery back in 1956. Throwing off the grubby and rundown reputation which ultimately saw its demise at the end of 2010, The Model Inn has evolved to become a stylish, modern and appealing restaurant, grill and bar. Now focusing on delivering simply prepared, taste-tingling dishes that range from steaks to seafood, salads and appetisers, Greenwood & Brown is now many steps away from the traditional drinking hole and gig venue it used to be with tall marble-topped tables adding a sense of sophistication and style in what is already a tastefully designed restaurant with a modest colour scheme and a sleek finish.
Although there’s nothing that will particularly take you by surprise on the Greenwood & Brown menu, from the dishes we tried, clean and professionally delivered dishes can certainly be expected. For starters, the salt beef with horseradish cream and herb salad was light and fresh; as was the crumbed calamari with chilli dressing. At £6 and £5.25 respectively, these dishes weren’t unreasonably priced and both were packed with flavour.
For the main course, pork tenderloin from the specials board was simply and deliciously executed alongside a light peppercorn sauce and a choice of either green beans and rocket pesto, or a serving of creamy mash. The sea bass and salmon, which were again both chosen from the specials board, both proved esimply well executed.
Each course was delivered without fault, and with a round of crisp deserts to finish – a clean and fresh cheesecake, sharp tart au citron and an Eton mess – we were relaxed, well fed and committed to a return visit. GARETH LUDKIN