CARLUCCIO’S | FOOD REVIEW
Mermaid Quay, Cardiff. 029 2046 0201 / www.carluccios.com
The great man himself was in Cardiff recently at the opening of the latest in the Carluccio empire; not that Antonio really has a major input anymore, but he is the figurehead, and an internationally recognised one. He chatted amiably to the assorted gathering and graciously granted Buzz an interview; he is indeed one of the great chefs of his time.
After the initial hullabaloo died down we popped down one summers evening and sat outside for drinks. Slightly away from the main drag of Mermaid Quay, it’s a pleasant haven and a perfect suntrap. The menu, huge both in size and content, is traditional Italian and the same whichever Carluccio’s you dine in. There is a weekly changing chef’s menu which is usually based around seasonal availability.
Risotto zucchini, bresaola, thinly sliced cured beef with rocket and pan-roasted cod were on the week that we dined. However, we all went for the standard menu: sardine carpione to start (grilled sardines topped with pine nuts, carrots, onions, raisins and bay leaves in a sweet and sour marinade on rocket), and calamari, lightly fried served with pepolata mayonnaise and chargrilled lemon.
For mains, pollo alla napoletana (roasted chicken thighs with cherry tomatoes, anchovy, garlic and olives served with rosemary potatoes) and spaghetti carbonara – simple but always good to try the standard dishes. Desserts followed: tiramisu, which was thoroughly enjoyed, and panna cotta: vanilla and rum-flavoured cream with candied orange. I wasn’t too keen on the panna cotta as the rum was a bit overpowering; I prefer the traditional with caramel, but it’s all down to personal taste.
Carluccio’s in the bay has revitalised the corner it now resides in and provides a relaxed and jovial restaurant in the area. The food is bordering above average and can be expensive for a chain restaurant, but the staff are very polite and efficient, and the overall experience was good. Worth trying.
words ANTONIA LEVAY