ARBENNIG | FOOD REVIEW
Romilly Crescent, Pontcanna, Cardiff. 029 2034 1264 / www.arbennig.co.uk
Given the translation of the Welsh word ‘arbennig’ is ‘special’, I was expecting something very special indeed. The recently taken over Oscars has had a lick of paint, new artwork and a bit of a general spruce-up. John and Ceri Cook are the new owners; Ceri is front of house and John the head chef. John had previously been the head chef at Oscars for 11 years, but now he is the proud owner of Arbennig.
Local produce, freshly caught seafood and a weekly changing menu are the key pluses here and the night we popped in the menu had just changed.
I had bacon, roast pear and brie salad which was topped with toasted almonds and caramelised balsamic. My partner had shredded fried beef, smoked whiskey molasses with sesame, cucumber and coriander leaf. I followed with a main of roast fillet of cod, creamed cauliflower, peas & chorizo, and a shared broccoli with toasted almond and parmesan.
My partner went for the dry aged burger with Wookey Cave cheddar, shallot relish, triple-cooked chips and onion rings. All of which came served on a board, which is apet hate of mine – as is any food served on a slate, or other building materials.
For dessert we shared a honey and banana panna cotta with salted caramel ice cream and walnuts, with a bottle of house Sauvignon blanc. There is a gap for this style of restaurant in Pontcanna and John and Ceri are filling this space very well as they certainly know their stuff. Apart from the serving apparatus it was all very enjoyable; it’s still early days yet and it will only get better.
words ANTONIA LEVAY