Cog Road, Sully. 029 2267 9678 / www.theboathousesully.co.uk
Food **** Atmosphere ***
The Old Sully Inn had been empty for a while, waiting to be rescued or, like most buildings these days, turned into flats. Its recent renovation – and name change – is down to the new owners, locals Stuart and Liz Reid, along with Peter Knowles and Andy Bradshaw from the Hamptons interior design store in Penarth. If you know Hamptons then you’ll know it for its furnishings, objets d’art and quirky interiors. The boathouse has had some serious interior design touches and the fresh nautical feel has given this formerly drab building a positive facelift.
The menu is concise and to the point, with an interesting fish selection. Having recently gone down the no-meat route, I was hoping for a varied menu, and the choices available were well thought out. Their veggie burger, in a brioche bun with cheddar, tomato, gherkin, tomato relish, chips and beetroot coleslaw, was excellent, as was calamari and fish and chips with a minted pea puree. The chicken, I’m reliably informed, was also very good.
The downstairs area is more informal, with a bar and booths, plus a dog-friendly policy which is always a good sign. Upstairs is very Raffles in its style: foliage both real and fake adorning the walls, big centre fan lights and pale green rattan furniture with a selection of exotic prints dotted around. I’m a big fan of plants to soften a place – nothing worse than sitting in a clinical soulless restaurant.
A very enjoyable experience where everything worked, they know what people want and give it to them with style and a friendly welcome. Fabulous. ANTONIA LEVAY