Neath is home to many waterfalls, formed by limestone erosion over the years and earning the Neath Valley its nickname, Waterfall Country. Among these is Sgwd Gwladys – ‘Lady Falls’ in Welsh – and David James took a trip.
Located in Pontneddfechan, Glynneath, the approach to the Sgwd Gwladys waterfalls follows the historical route once used by horse-drawn drams to transport silica rock from the mines in the early 19th century. One of these old mines can still be seen alongside the path.
Here, the rivers Nedd Fechan and Afon Pyrddin converge, with water cascading 10 metres over the falls into the river. Behind the falls is a plunge pool, formed by water flowing over hard sandstone into the soft mudrock below. Despite the passage of time, this natural formation is still evolving. The plunge pool is a popular spot for swimming, one lauded on TikTok by nature enthusiasts.
Near the waterfalls, there’s a proper old-fashioned pub, The Angel, on Pontneathvaughan Road: continue on (having paid a visit, or not) and you’ll see gates leading to the Elidir Trail. After a 25-minute walk, you will reach a bridge which leads on to a waterfall, some seven metres high. A serene, picturesque retreat, perfect for escaping a hot summer’s day, the trails make this a popular destination for hikers and day trippers alike.
Secluded and much like an auditorium, the surroundings of the falls include trees and rocks, with the sound of local wildlife chirping away. The forest here is serene and peaceful, offering a tranquil escape. Throw in the falls splashing against the waterbed, and it’s the perfect backdrop to escape the everyday grind. This wet, wooded valley is home to dippers and grey wagtails.
As for the backstory of the falls? Sgwd Gwladys – Lady Falls in Welsh – is named after Gwladus, a beautiful maiden said to be one of 24 daughters of fifth-century king Brychan Brycheiniog. Gwladus fell in love with a young man named Einion, but their union was forbidden by her father due to Einion’s lowly birth. Overwhelmed by grief, Gwladus’ sorrow mysteriously transformed into a secluded pool, with her spirit manifesting as a waterfall. Heartbroken over losing his love, Einion threw himself into the river and became the waterfall Sgwd Einion Gam. Now, their spirits flow together, completing their union.
words DAVID JAMES
