With a near-magical atmosphere and sweeping views across an ancient landscape, there’s a reasonable argument to be made for Pen Y Fan being one of the best walks in Wales. From my last foray into the Brecon Beacons, it would seem that countless other explorers – ranging from children to the elderly and everyone in between – would agree, as they queued along the trail in the same fashion as those adrenaline junkies lining up for the final push to the summit of Everest. While that may be a bit of an exaggeration, the route has drastically increased in popularity over the last few years, particularly with younger generations and travellers looking to capture that ever-important Instagram-worthy photo.
Trudging up the highest peak in Southern Britain may seem an overly technical and complicated ordeal for a good walk, but in fact, the opposite couldn’t be more true. Yes, there is a fair amount of elevation gain, and the terrain can be quite rugged in certain areas, but for those who simply want to reach the summit of Pen Y Fan in a timely manner, it requires nothing more than a half-decent level of physical fitness and enough time in your schedule to complete a four-mile round trip walk from the Pont Ar Daf car park.
Now, if you are anything like me (a glutton for tough walking routes with a penchant for going off the beaten path to escape the crowds), then you’re probably thinking, “Four miles isn’t nearly long enough,” or “Why on earth would I want to be surrounded by hordes of people?” But the great thing about Pen Y Fan, and the Brecon Beacons in general, is that there are a number of interconnected tracks in the area that allow you to make your adventure as challenging as you want – and as far away from other people as you want.
You likely won’t be able to completely escape the crowds at the summit of Pen Y Fan or nearby Corn Du unless you arrive early, but you can certainly extend your journey to include the surrounding peaks and valleys. Not only will this remove you from the throngs that congregate for social media photo ops, but it will also give you the true feeling of wonder and accomplishment that comes with a day spent amongst the natural beauty of the Welsh landscape.
Of all the routes in the central Beacons that might be considered the ‘best’ in Wales, the Brecon Beacons Horseshoe Circular Walk is the one I find myself constantly coming back to when in the area, as it features the best challenge to reward ratio. As this was the first route that I attempted in the park, it holds a special place in my heart, but the top-class scenery leaves me feeling like I need to pick my jaw up off the ground every time I set out on another excursion there.

The route features breathtaking views of a seemingly primaeval landscape that includes the surrounding peaks, valleys, lakes, and the sprawling Welsh countryside, and I honestly haven’t found a better way to spend a day outdoors or feel connected to the earth. Make no mistake – with 2,680ft of elevation gain and plenty of ups and downs along its rugged ridgelines, this 11-mile track will certainly wear you down, but trust me when I say there is something utterly enthralling about the atmosphere on this trail.
Eschewing the overcrowded Pont Ar Daf car park, the Brecon Beacons Horseshoe Circular Walk begins from the Neuadd car park to the southeast and passes by the Lower Neuadd Reservoir, before climbing sharply uphill to the top of a ridge. The terrain here is quite steep and will wear you down a bit, but it also provides the first sweeping views across the undulating landscape looking down on Blaen Taf Fechan.
In my opinion, this is where the real fun of the walk begins, as you traverse an elevated position with views across the valley towards your objectives for later on in the journey. As you work your way around the horseshoe, you will traverse the summits of Corn Du and Pen Y Fan. Here, you will begin to encounter higher volumes of walkers, but if you catch a period of clear weather you will have a sightline stretching out to Snowdonia in the north and the Bristol Channel to the south, making the crowds a bit more tolerable.

Immediately after the 2,907ft summit of Pen Y Fan, you will encounter the rugged terrain of Jacob’s Ladder to the southeast. This steep staircase thankfully helps to thin out the number of walkers along the trail, most of whom turn back for an easy return to the car park. I’ve never been a fan of quick adventures, and almost always opt to continue around the horseshoe to visit the summits of Cribyn and one of my favourite destinations along the entire route, the diving board rock formation at Fan Y Big. Sitting out on the precipice is one of the most freeing and relaxing feelings you can experience, but it is especially powerful, and slightly eerie when a cloud of fog rolls through the area and blankets the landscape.
At this point, it is a pretty straightforward descent to the southeast towards Blaen Y Glyn and several beautiful waterfalls, before looping around on the return to the car park. This route definitely makes for a long day on the trail, and by the end of the walk I’m usually knackered and ready for a pint, but there is still no other adventure that I would rather undertake when exploring the fascinating landscape of Wales.
Whether you have the same appreciation for this amazing walking route as I do, or want to look into some other options for exploring the area, make sure to check out this fantastic list of walking routes in Brecon Beacons National Park to make the most of your outdoor walking adventure in Wales.
words RICHARD CAMPBELL for 10ADVENTURES. Info: www.10adventures.com