MARK SCHWARTZ | INTERVIEW
Although you may not know the name Mark Schwartz, you will likely have seen his designs. After 37 years in the fashion trade, his resume incorporates the runway, the cover of Vogue and the footwear of Chanel, Gucci and Balenciaga. Daisy Gaunt heard more about his colourful life and times…
As a designer, Mark Schwartz continues to reach heights many can only dream of. Beginning his career in 1980s New York, Schwartz was cherry-picked by the iconic Roger Vivier as a protégé, tasked with overseeing the grand opening of his Madison Avenue store in 1983. Living up to his protégé’s name, Schwartz became creative director of the brand in 1986, eventually ghost designing for Alexander McQueen, Hermes and Versace, to name but a few.
After success in this field, it followed that he would eventually go solo, creating a brand in his own name last year. With names including Oprah, Lady Gaga, Tina Turner and Angelina Jolie in his clientele, he could certainly enjoy an advantageous starting point. His new Marquis collection seems like a natural progression. Designed in collaboration with MacGyver and NCIS actor, Marquis Michael Des Barres, the results are a manifestation of Schwartz’s creative talent.
“I was told by Vivier that you should be able to walk into any shoe store, see their display and be able to pick yours out by their look, much like you would be able to a car,” he recalls, and this is something Schwartz has achieved. From the vibrancy of the fabrics, beginning with a faux snake, and progressing onto beautiful suedes with bold pops of colour, his designs are ‘classic with a twist’, accessible enough that – in his conception – “a businessman can wear them, but so can a rock’n’roll star,” and would be instantly recognisable on the feet of any wearer.
For Schwartz, his shoes are his art, something borne out by his use of distinctive, unique patterns and hand-painted fabrics: Vivier’s advice has served him well. A fine artist in his own right, Schwartz’s artistic abilities were nourished by none other than Andy Warhol. His Madison Avenue office became the epicentre of a beautiful friendship which produced art for Warhol and Schwartz alike – every Tuesday, at 2pm sharp, they would spend the afternoon drawing and chatting.
Warhol had heard through the grapevine that a promising young designer had taken office there and was determined to get to know him. One afternoon in February 1984, remembers Schwartz, Warhol – clad in “leather pants and sneakers” and curiously “crooked wig” – wandered into the store and asked Schwartz’s assistant for an audience. A perplexed Mark answered his assistant’s call with “Who’s Mr Warhol?” presently realising that one of the artists who had shaped pop culture as we know it has dropped by in the hopes of creating a friendship.
“We knew each other for the three or four years before he died,” Schwartz says now. “He was only 58 [when he died]. I often wonder where that friendship would have gone if he was around for longer.” Warhol’s influence permeates Schwartz’s artistic works, both on the canvas and the shoes, with several Schwartz screenprints including clear nods to their friendship: Stiletto Soup the most obviously telegraphed.
Mark’s career came to a pause in 2001, however: after escaping the 9/11 terror attacks by the skin of his teeth, he realised the importance of being present within his family and took some time out to raise his young son. Yet in 2020, having missed his creative role, he reconnected with his design roots.
“In some ways I feel like I am just beginning,” he says. “I am definitely just starting to feel more comfortable in what I am doing – more confident in doing more bold things.” Perhaps finally going it alone, in his own name, means Mark Schwartz is finally coming into his own? “I have learned I am stronger than I thought I was.”
The Marquis collection is available now at www.markschwartzmensshoes.com
words DAISY GAUNT