Authenticity is overrated. Sure, classic recipes made with a handful of quality ingredients by someone who knows what they’re doing can be (and often are) great – but give me culinary maximalism over austere, prissy purism pretty much every time. A welcome antidote to the spread of Taco Bell, La Pantera proudly proclaims to be the “home of the unauthentic taco”, and while it might upset the odd Mexican person, who cares when the results are this imaginative, vibrant and flavoursome?
The menu is regularly refreshed, shaped by what’s in season, but at any one time you’re guaranteed to have a meat, a fish and a vegan option to choose from, the ingredients sourced from Cardiff Market a mere stone’s throw away. Given our party of three, it’s a no-brainer to simply sample the lot – especially as there are three tacos in a portion, conveniently avoiding any unseemly squabbles. Chorizo arancinis, encased in a tortilla chip crumb, are lent a good lick of heat by some accompanying pepperonata. Crunchy cubes of celeriac bravas, by contrast, are cooled by coconut yoghurt. Best of all, though, is the sea bass, flambéed in mezcal and served with the zingy freshness of lime curd and pickled mango.
A side of knobbly sweetcorn fritters comes with a satisfyingly rich satay paste, while the pot of dipping gravy provided with a pair of cheesy chicken tinga birrias is both entirely unnecessary and enthusiastically received. And, of course, we have to throw in a portion of nachos to test the guacamole and refried beans (both duly approved).
La Pantera began life upstairs in the same venue in February 2020, and in light of the sector’s struggles, it’s heartening that the fledgling business has not only survived the turbulence caused by COVID but actively thrived, taking over the downstairs of the premises in August of that year. Besides tacos, the other speciality is mezcal – founders Joe Rapson and Mark Holmes having met while working at the Dead Canary bar – but, it being a weekday lunchtime, we abstain. Next time, we’ll know to take the afternoon off, don our metaphorical luchador masks and go a few rounds with the cocktail list.
5 Quay Street, Cardiff. 029 2022 3158 / lapantera.co.uk
words and photos BEN WOOLHEAD
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