Pontcanna Street, Cardiff
029 2023 5666 / www.fishat85.co.uk
Food **** Atmosphere ****
This former fish restaurant/mongers, trading as Fish At 85 since 2011, has been gutted of its centrepiece fish counter, prep room and various fishmongery items and been turned into a far more appealing place to eat. Having recently been taken over by infamous restauranteur Toni Venditto, also of Topo Gigio and Da Venditto, Fish At 85 has been given the Italian touch, Toni bringing his years of experience to this eatery in the middle of Pontcanna.
On the evening we went the place was busy with happy, chatty diners. The cold interior that was is now a far more cosy affair, with additional seating, nautically-themed décor and neutral wood panelling. The specials board changes daily depending on what’s available, while the main menu is updated monthly. The four diners in our group this evening picked options from both.
For starters: calamari, prawns in a butter and garlic sauce, and mussels in a tomato and garlic sauce. For mains: sea bass with avocado and red pepper salsa, sea bream with Mediterranean vegetables, seared salmon and lemon sole. These are each served with potatoes of choice and greens, all presrnted in dinky enamelled pie dishes. The portions were generous, the flavours perfect. For desserts, we shared between us a blueberry tart and bakewell with sorbet, accompanied by a suitably dry bottle of house sauvignon.
Toni has plans to redevelop Fish At 85, adding a bar downstairs, extra seating and an open kitchen. Once the refit has been completed, there will also be additional choices brought onto the menu to include meat and poultry. The restaurant is already a buzzy presence on the Pontcanna village scene with its regulars popping in; the new updates should seal this as a buoyant return to form for Toni and his culinary team.
words ANTONIA LEVAY