Perched on the Mumbles stretch in Swansea and in place since the 18th century, Clyne Gardens is a botanical treasure that Buzz’s David James recently discovered – to his sheer delight…
Despite my numerous visits to Mumbles, I had somehow overlooked the verdant oasis that is Clyne Gardens, tucked away from the arcades and eateries that dominate the area. If you’re among those who roll their eyes when told a walk might alleviate anxiety, I urge you to take a stroll here. The park can’t toot its own horn, so allow me to do the honours.
Stepping into Clyne Gardens felt like being dropped into a Jumanji-esque realm. Yes, we’re in Wales, but the influence of Japan is unmistakable, with a cornucopia of exotic plants. Renowned globally for its exquisite collections of rhododendrons, pieris, and enkianthus, the gardens offer a sanctuary of tranquillity, luscious greenery and many intriguing features.
The upkeep, managed by the City Council, is evident, with staff trimming the hedges during my visit. Among its highlights, Clyne Gardens boasts a traditional Japanese bridge, Admiral’s Tower, the historic Clyne Castle, and a ‘magic tree’ which was surrounded by a group of tourists when I passed by.
Clyne Gardens has had just a few owners since the late 18th century, and three of those belonged to the Swansea family of Vivian, who amassed their wealth through copper smelting (Swansea’s boom in copper production at the time has given rise to its occasional nickname, Copperopolis).
William Graham Vivian purchased Clyne Castle in 1860, lavishing it with his wealth. Three significant trees planted by him stand in front of the Castle: a Wellingtonia (Sequoiadendron giganteum) and two Monterey Cypress (Cupressus macrocarpa), including one of Britain’s tallest recorded specimens. In 1921, the estate was passed to his nephew Algernon Walker-Heneage-Vivian, who profoundly influenced the look of the gardens over a century on, and who hosted guests at the Castle from the future King Edward VIII to Neville Chamberlain, Stanley Baldwin and Adelina Patti.
Clyne Tower was designed for Algernon by David Thomas, and built by Arthur Mugford in 1928. Around five metres high and intended for admiring the rhododendrons, it’s now Grade II listed. Moreover, these gardens are home to Britain’s tallest recorded magnolia tree.
After soaking in the botanical splendour, I grabbed a Joe’s ice cream – a near-obligatory treat when in Mumbles – and headed to the Pilot Inn. This quirky, old-school establishment offered a cosy atmosphere, perfectly capping off a delightful day. Clyne Gardens is more than a mere park – it’s a captivating blend of history, horticulture, and tranquillity, waiting to be explored.
Clyne Gardens, Mayals, Swansea.
Info: clynegardens.co.uk
words DAVID JAMES
