Bunch Of Grapes proprietor Nick Otley is back doing what he does best: having revived some old favourites from his eponymous brewery, he’s continuing to deliver quality food too. Otley Brewing Company closed in 2018, after 13 years trading, but in 2022 Nick decided to bring back Otley beers.
During lockdown, he and his team had converted an unused outhouse on the Bunch Of Grapes’ premises into a 500-litre microbrewery. Largely focusing on cask beers, they’ve rebranded as Cwrw Otley, while the Bunch restaurant has also had a facelift and expansion, including an open kitchen and more seating overlooking the beer garden.
The Bunch of Grapes has always had an enviable reputation, with staff and chefs being an integral part of the business development. While many in the hospitality sector are struggling to recruit, the Bunch’s dedicated team of chefs and staff are invested in the reputation and success of the business. The menu is bespoke and interesting, with many home touches on the menu – black garlic is marinated on-site, where many other herbs and hops grow, as well as rhubarb in the beer garden – and ingredients ethically sourced.
After a chat with Gareth, a font of knowledge, he swayed us to order the smoked brisket burger – in a brioche bun and joined by crispy bacon, melted American-style Welsh cheese, onion straws, gherkin ketchup, tarragon mayo and hand-cut chips. It’s as impressive as it sounds. The Bunch brisket, smoked paprika, cider and apple pie comes with chips and sauteed seasonal greens, cooked over a charcoal oven. All of which was delightful. The roasted cod, charcoal potato wedges and spring onion with a smoked red pepper puree will be my next choice when I visit.
It would have been amiss not to sample Otley’s revived ales, and their O6 Porter and O1 Original pale ale were each thoroughly enjoyed. As an owner-managed business, Nick and his team are nailing the Bunch Of Grapes at present; alongside the restaurant and brewery, there’s a craft beer shop and in-house bakery planned, while through the week there are offers on cocktails and wines, cheese and wine evenings, live music, BBQ nights and other one-off events.
Bunch Of Grapes, 40 Ynysangharad Road, Pontypridd.
Info: 01443 402934 / bunchofgrapes.pub
words ANTONIA LEVAY
