Not all heroes wear capes. Take my friend, for instance, who’s currently on a mad mission with his dad to sample every fry-up in Cardiff. In the course of what has been christened Brekquest, they’ve now visited more than 20 different establishments, diligently recording research findings and ratings in a spreadsheet.
One place to receive a recent thumbs-up is Boomerang Lounge, occupying the former home of La Creperie de Claudie on Cowbridge Road East. But, given that central Canton is particularly well furnished with few-frills greasy spoons, why trek as far as Victoria Park for a full Welsh?
It’s not just about the food. Boomerang is a charity set up to tackle poverty, homelessness and social isolation, with founder Paul Gwilym inspired by his own personal experience of hardship. The organisation’s initiatives include operating a second-hand furniture warehouse in Splott and campaigning against period poverty, and Paul has a policy of employing those who need help to get back on their feet. The Canton café is Boomerang’s latest venture, and (Paul hopes) the first of several – not only a place of employment but a means of generating profits to support its work and a meeting point for individuals and fellow charities.
It already appears to be performing the latter function well – when we arrive, on a bright Friday lunchtime in late April, the place is abuzz and all indoor tables are either occupied or reserved (a refreshing contrast to the undeserved and ultimately unsustainable emptiness of other establishments). Mercifully, though, one of the US diner-style window booths becomes available and we’re able to enjoy the best seats in the house.
While one of our party veers off-piste and plumps for the meatball and penne special, the rest of us feel duty bound to sample the standard fry-up. In the spirit of Brekquest, Boomerang Lounge scores well for treating its customers like adults and giving us both decent bacon and a pork and leek sausage, rather than a bland kids’-party banger; for serving up a grilled and herbed half-tomato, rather than an acidic watery lagoon of tinned gunk; and for providing a proper fried egg that looks like it’s come out of neither a mould nor a joke shop.
There are bonus points for a slice of black pudding (albeit a somewhat slender one), which balances out an undercooked hash brown. The only real blot in the copybook is the lack of a ramekin for the beans – essential to frustrate their alarming expansionist tendency to colonise every corner of the plate.
In a scheme that could perhaps be better publicised, the café also invites customers to pay for a meal or a drink that can then be subsequently claimed by those in need, without question or judgement and free of charge. Shovelling down a fry-up can seem sinful, so fair play to Boomerang for finding a way to make it feel positively virtuous.
In the Brekquest stakes, Café 37 on Salisbury Road leads the way, with Elmer’s and Granny Mac’s close behind, while Ground is a hi-vis-jacket-free zone offering breakfasts/brunches that are a cut above in terms of both quality and price. But if you fancy getting a nice warm glow inside from more than just your bacon butty, give the Boomerang Lounge your business.
Boomerang Lounge, Cowbridge Road East, Cardiff.
Info: here
words and photos BEN WOOLHEAD
