BLUE ANCHOR INN
East Aberthaw, nr Barry. 01446 750329 / www.blueanchoraberthaw.com
Food ****
Atmosphere ****
This centuries-old former smuggling Inn was established in 1380, making it one of the oldest pubs in Wales. Aberthaw was once a thriving port, even more important than Cardiff and Barry and well known for its smuggling to boot; the Blue Anchor is named after the blue marl (mud) which covered the anchors of vessels that sailed through the channel and anchored off Aberthaw. Apparently, there is a semi-secret tunnel which links the bay with the Blue Anchor which all manner of contraband was allegedly transported.
Under the current management of Richard Coleman, who has run the business since his father Bill handed it down to him in 1987, the Blue Anchor remains one of the most frequented pubs in the Vale Of Glamorgan, not only for its ales and beers but for its lovely food. Always up there in food awards, it’s been used as a location in films (Killer Elite, a maligned adaption of a Ranulph Fiennes novel, and BBC doc Coast), has won pub of the year several years running and is Egon Ronay-recommended.
Bar meals are served downstairs in the cosy rooms and in the bar area, but we ate in the restaurant upstairs. The menu is constantly changing, which is a plus. We had deep-fried, mozzarella-stuffed arrancini with a roasted pepper salsa, and feta cheese baked in filo pastry on a walnut and pear salad for starters. Monkfish and king prawn curry cooked in aromatic spices, tomato and coconut arrived with basmati rice and poppadoms; steak and ale pie is made with Theakston’s Old Peculiar and served with buttery mash and mixed vegetables.
This is a regular haunt for this reviewer – and we have tried most things on the menu, including the various wines. The food remains excellent, there are about eight or nine choices and it changes seasonally: you are pretty much guaranteed an excellent meal and good service. It’s not rocket science, do what you are supposed to do well, with passion and attention to detail – and the Blue Anchor Inn does, consistently.
words ANTONIA LEVAY