In the early 20th century, at least a thousand Italians emigrated to Wales; many found employment in the mines, others set up cafés. Today, Wales is still home to various ice-cream family firms, applying local ingredients and following traditional recipes. Billy Edwards is our man with the big scoop.
CAFFI PATIO
Opened in 1972, this spot overlooks Llangrannog beach and Cardigan Bay, making it popular with those undertaking the Wales Coast Path. With its ice cream produced on site, the café has recently adopted various vegan flavours, as well as affogato and homemade jam doughnuts. Peach and wild cherry is the favourite flavour of its staff.
Info: caffipatio.wales
CHILLY COW
With milk sourced directly from over 80 Swiss cows on their farm, Stryt Fawr in Ruthin, this family-run company works with milk high in butterfat – meaning it’s tastier. Other farm honesty boxes have vegetables – theirs has ice cream! You can also find their pots at the Abakhan Village market in Holywell.
Info: chillycow.co.uk
CONTI’S
The Conti family also departed Bardi in the 1930s, settling in Ystradgynlais; today, both their Lampeter and Llanerchaeron locations are run by the fourth generation of Contis. They have recently diversified into dairy-free sorbets, and an alcohol-based range in partnership with Penderyn.
Info: contisicecream.com
CRESCI’S CAFÉ
Established in Skewen, Neath 104 years ago by the Cresci family from Bardi in central Italy, this is one of Wales’ oldest cafés. First finding fortune with local miners, throughout World War II Cresci’s competed with rationing by producing their own ice cream. Tubs come in three sizes: medium, large, and “even bigger”.
Info: cresciscafe.co.uk
FORTE’S RESTAURANT
Based on Llandudno’s North Shore beach, the Forte family travelled from Lazio in central Italy in 1926. Their recipe is based on the work of Onorio Forte, infamous back home because of how far his methods travelled. There are 33 flavours to try, including bubblegum and Turkish Delight, plus some rather substantial sundaes.
Info: Facebook
FRANK’S ICE CREAM
Frank Dallavalle’s produce was first handed out in 1922 from a horse and cart, around the Amman Valley. Today, the family continue to produce and serve from their very own ice cream parlour on Ammanford’s Capel Hendre Industrial Estate, where in 2022 an ‘innovation centre’ was constructed to provide interactive classes for local schools.
Info: Facebook
LLANFAES DAIRY
This artisan producer is currently operating in two locations, the first in Brecon and, since July last year, Mermaid Quay in Cardiff Bay. Llanfaes’ quality owes much to how, even on the busiest of summer days, they are produced one batch at a time in more than 40 flavours – including welsh cake, with real pieces included.
Info: llanfaesdairy.com
MARIO’S ICE CREAM
Mario Dallavalle is a third-generation ice cream maker, using milk and cream from local farms while passing knowhow onto his children. Produced in and distributed from Cross Hands near Llanelli, the Mario’s mixture is also aged overnight for maximum flavour.
Info: mariosicecream.com
SIDOLI’S
Founded in 1922, and also in its fourth generation, you can visit the Ebbw Vale factory of this ice-cream family to purchase both standard and ‘luxury’ ranges. Until 1936, when the Sidolis acquired their own freezer, ice blocks were delivered by train from Cardiff. Their current freezer model, meanwhile, can produce 1,200 litres of ice cream an hour.
Info: sidolis-icecream.co.uk
VERDI’S
With good views over Swansea Bay, this Mumbles parlour was opened in 1993 by the Moruzzi family. Named after the Italian composer, it quickly became a local institution. There’s over 30 desserts on offer, and resident ice cream experimenter Tom has launched mini-sundaes in wafer pots for this summer.
Info: verdis-cafe.co.uk
words BILLY EDWARDS