THE BEECH TREE INN ★★★

Old Port Road, Culverhouse Cross, Cardiff. 029 2059 3106
Having not eaten at The Beech Tree Inn for an age since the original Gilby’s, it was about time I reacquainted myself, particularly as Anthony Armelin has once again taken the helm after a 10-year sabbatical.
Yes, it is a little bit Harvester-esque in its appearance, it does still attract the blue rinse brigade. And yes, the huge wall-length mirror is still there – which I guess is part of the appeal in some ways – but the quality is also definitely there. On a whim, a friend and I took our mothers for a ‘drive time’ meal (available from 5.30-7pm), which at £9.95 for two courses and a free ice cream sundae was worth a try. With a choice of four starters and main courses, it wasn’t the typical sub standard offering. We chose prawn cocktail, a beautifully presented smoked mackerel and beetroot salad, followed by fish and chips with mushy peas and a homemade fish pie with salad. A meal for four from the drive time menu with a bottle of wine and coffees came to £52.
Although initially sceptical about what to expect, my expectations were exceeded by the fantastic food, a good wine selection and the genuinely helpful and smiley staff. The main menu looked interesting enough to warrant a return visit and if you’re after an above average meal at a reasonable price that won’t push you further into your overdraft, The Beech Tree Inn is a quality restaurant that deserves a visit. ANTONIA LEVAY