THE BISTRO | FOOD REVIEW
Stanwell Road, Penarth. 029 2070 9600 / www.thebistropenarth.co.uk
This new partnership between the current owner Cheryl Day, renowed chef Padrig Jones, formerly of Le Gallois, and Joanne Nuwar, one of the founders of Pier 64, is now truly underway. Gone is the objets d’art and busy interior, now replaced with fresh white walls and a complete de-clutter.
More in keeping with a French bistro, this re-vamp has a feeling of a quaint little cafe in the middle of Provence. Our visit coincided with one of many themed evenings to come, tonight being Steak & Lobster. Having experienced a regrettable evening at Burger & Lobster, never to be repeated, I have since been slightly wary of the combo platter.
However, after correctly ignoring my request for a well-done fillet with half a lobster, my main arrived superbly dressed and executed in every sense. The lobster was succulent and delicate and the steak probably one of the best I’ve had, which my partner echoed. With a choice of three starters and main, one is not left dithering in a state of panic of what to choose. Expect to see Roquefort soufflé, steak frites, divercaught scallops and wild mushroom risotto on the menu.
The fact that Padrig is such a legend means you feel totally safe in his hands, knowing he will deliver quality and style every time. The menu is updated with seasonal ingredients and the menu reflects this. All vegetables, meat and fish are sourced from local suppliers, as is the wine, which from a diner’s point of view is perfect.
Gone are the days of humongous portions of inexpensive yet low-quality food: welcome back artisan suppliers and educated chefs and restaurateurs who are passionate about their chosen careers. The Bistro has all these qualities and I’m afraid you may have to book up in advance very soon, if not by the time this hits the streets.
words ANTONIA LEVAY photo MORGAN DIVINE