TEMPUS AT TIDES RESTAURANT | FOOD REVIEW
St David’s Hotel, Havannah Street, Cardiff Bay. 029 2045 4045 / www.thestdavidshotel.com/dining
Under the guidance of newly appointed executive chef Christian Carbillet, who’s also the only person in Wales to hold the title of Master Chef Of France, Tides restaurant has upped its appeal with the introduction of a fresh menu. Promising to deliver only the best locally sourced ingredients, the menu boasts a distinctly European flavour infused with fine Welsh ingredients and specialities.
Examples of starters include foie gras and chicken liver parfait, Carmarthen ham, and gravadlax; I chose a double baked Caerphilly soufflé and, by recommendation, ravioli of Brixham scallops and prawns in a crayfish sauce. The main course selection – Burry Port clam linguine, steam roasted chicken breast, monkfish cheeks and Gower cockles – were all persuasive, but Breconshire lamb medallions with Lyonnaise potatoes, leek ragout and white wine mint jus – again, recommended by Tides staff – won out, along with catch of the day served with sautéed green beans and dauphinoise potatoes. Accompanying wines were a Valdivieso Sauvignon Blanc and an El Colectivo Shiraz Malbec.
Desserts were a difficult choice: limoncello panna cotta and wild berry sauce would usually win, but today bourbon vanilla crème brulee with Merlyn cream pipped it to the post. Faced against a sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream, the crème brulee was the definite winner for me.
With a light bites menu, afternoon tea and various grill options, the revamp has improved Tides immensely. As is to be expected, the beautiful location, decor and general service is perfect, the staff knowledgeable and polite. The subtle use of ingredients and the marrying of flavours between traditional French cuisine and Welsh produce is a skill which works and has increased the relevance of Tides as a restaurant to be regularly used and appreciated, which until now may have been slightly forgotten.
words ANTONIA LEVAY