RESTAURANT JAMES SOMMERIN | FOOD REVIEW
The Esplanade, Penarth. 029 2070 6559 / www.jamessommerinrestaurant.co.uk
After successfully steering the Crown at Whitebrook in Monmouth for many years, Michelin award-winning chef James Sommerin has embarked on his first solo venture and opened up a restaurant in Penarth. His cooking style is influenced mainly by his grandmother, who imparted love and wisdom into the young James and fuelled his lifelong passion for food. The concept is either a five or seven course tasting menu with one or two dishes altering weekly, available for £55 and £75 respectively. A special 10-course tasting menu is available, which is a surprise selection of dishes created by James and his team.
The seasonal offerings on this occasion are combined like so: braised pig’s head, celeriac, apple and star anise; monkfish with seaweed, grilled leek, curry and puffed grains; duck with lavender, beetroot, soy sauce and cumin; and for desserts, strawberry, lime, chocolate and vanilla, and banana, stout, toffee and macadamia nut. Teamed with two splendid bottles of Sancerre, the experience was certainly interesting.
There is no denying the quality and excellence of James’ work: chefs, after all, are the new rock stars, and the attention to detail is exceptional. The problem for me is there was little or no atmosphere, and the restaurant itself was quite clinical in its design. The restaurant is in a great location, only a stone’s throw from the sea, but you need to stretch to see the view out of the window. The bench seating across the whole front of the restaurant is also prohibitive. I understand food is paramount, but when venturing somewhere new and forking out a substantial amount of money, the whole experience should be joyous and without fault.
With rooms opening above the restaurant very soon and chef’s table evenings a regular and popular event, James Sommerin is sure to do remarkably well. It’s just a shame the ambience doesn’t live up to the food, hence the four stars.
words ANTONIA LEVAY