192 Bryntirion Road, Swansea. Info: 01792 882409 / www.rasoiwales.co.uk
On a bitterly cold evening two weeks before Christmas in an apparently cash strapped economy, the Rasoi Indian Kitchen is brimming with diners keen to sample the Indian fusion cuisine that has seen the establishment win the accolade of Best Newcomer at the British Curry Awards. The restaurant, several motorway junctions away from the hustle and bustle of Swansea City Centre, is the epitome of exotic, modern opulence, all earthy tones and Indian motifs.
Throughout three courses of the traditional and thoroughly innovative, our tastebuds were tantalised with mango infusions, tamarind glazes and homemade desserts to make pastry chefs the country over quiver in their chefs’ whites. After much debate over how to filter out two starters from an array of enticing offers, we chose the most succulent scallops dressed like the true kings of the sea that they are with impeccable sauces of mango chili, coriander salsa and beetroot sauce.
With a fault-free starter under our belts, we entered into a rather traditional foodie relationship with a Chicken Dhansak and Balti, both heady with spice and elevated from your standard takeaway-fare by their fragrance and depth. The star of the show was the accompanying massala chilli chips, twice-fried hunks of potato coated in a sweet, spicy chili sauce that left us fighting for the last morsels in the bowl. Dessert was an affair worthy of an equally triumphant fanfare. Presented on slate and fragrant with rosewater, my Almond and Pistachio Kulfi was a culinary hug after the spice trip my tastebuds had been on.
Rasoi Indian Kitchen is an elegant establishment offering diners the chance to look on as the chef creates culinary theatre in the open kitchen while being waited on by the most discreetly attentive, knowledgeable staff. It is a breath of fresh air in a sea of identikit, middle of the road Indian restaurants. CHARLOTTE BEER