149 Cowbridge Road East, Cardiff. 07713 879052 / facebook.com/theoutbackcardiff
Food *** Atmosphere ***
There’s something of a disconnect about Australia’s culinary reputation, in that proper fine dining heads regard it as home to some of the best, most innovative restaurants in the world, while everyone else thinks of barbecued meat and seafood and pretty much stops there. Brand new Australian-centred joint Outback is unlikely to shatter the preconceptions of the latter group, but may have a bit on offer for the former.
Swathes of dark wood panels are leavened by a few Aboriginal artefacts on the wall and a large, puzzling square of Astroturf by the bar. My guest orders a baked damper loaf with camembert to start – intended for two people, on helping him out I’m struck by the cheese’s decidedly re-solidifed state. My calamari rings are good, as they should be for £7.95.
Perhaps unsurprisingly, mains are inarguable star performers. Outback revel in the mildly exotic/patriotic: kangaroo, ostrich, crocodile (in burger form) and wild boar fillet, which my guest selects. It has an impressive complexity of flavour and pliant texture. Myself? Well, I was wilfully encouraged towards the wagyu ribeye steak and, as this doesn’t happen every day, offered about as much resistance as this luxurious, Japan-originated breed does under the knife. Exceptionally tender, fat melting to abstraction – just one thing, it’s £54.50. While fairly standard for wagyu, no I wouldn’t pay that much with my own money, but anyone looking to throw down for a top class steak in Cardiff might want to consider this.
Desserts drag the bill back to earth at £4.95 each – fruit pavlova and Lamington, an Aussie cake with coconut and chocolate sauce. Both of our cocktails are fine, but the drinks list is otherwise dire. Outback, though, is keen and personable, and trying something a bit different in a busy restaurant strip, so I’m confident they’ll iron out this wrinkle and others.
NOEL GARDNER