33-34 Windsor Terrace, Penarth
029 2070 0500 / www.mintandmustard.com/penarth
The heart of Mint & Mustard, according to their philosophy, is Kerala: the region from which their dishes originate. Mint & Mustard is one of the wave of Indian restaurants popping up across the country, offering fine dining with a mission statement.
The Keralan way of cooking is fresh, light and healthy food, cooked a little bit longer. I have visited their newest branch in Penarth twice: on the first occasion, we sampled a selection of dishes from the second of two taster menus. Granted, not all were to my taste and I probably wouldn’t have chosen them normally, but I gave it a go.
Given free reign, however, I enjoyed our second visit more. A chicken tikka starter was followed by Malabar chicken biryani, sporting a flaky crust with fragrant spices and served with a light, fresh raita. The four of us dining that night sampled a selection of dishes including a king prawn peera – cooked in coconut, raw mango and ginger with black mustard and curry leaves – paired with seafood pilau rice. Interestingly, there is bison (yes, bison!) and green pepper tikka, cooked with potatoes and a choice of chef’s spices. We also had a selection of naan breads and sag aloo paneer, (spinach, potato, cumin and garlic amongst other ingredients, if you weren’t already familiar – it doesn’t tell you on the menu), a perfect side dish.
The food is very good, and executed as promised by their ‘philosophy’ statement. A “family of rices” to explain various rice options is a tad flowery for me, and the overused “melt in the mouth” could perhaps be omitted from the menu, but overall we enjoyed it. Despite being more expensive, with Mint & Mustard you are paying for the award-winning Kerala experience and a fine-looking restaurant in which to enjoy this unique culture.
words ANTONIA LEVAY