Yr Hen Lyfrgell, The Old Library, Cardiff. 029 2022 5982 / www.milkandsugarplease.com
Food **** Atmosphere ****
The latest branch of Milk & Sugar to be opened in Cardiff – this being number four – by owner/manager Tim Corrigan has found its home in the Old Library/Yr Hen Lyfrgell, which also houses the Welsh Language Centre. Open lunchtimes and selected evenings to be confirmed, the menu is Mediterranean-leaning, with suppliers from across Wales.
The specials we had on our visit were vegan coconut and chickpea gnocchi with light curry spices and grilled mango, and a Mexican baked sweet potato with black bean rice, fresh salsa and lime guacamole. Both were ÂŁ5.95; sides of Lebanese hummus, cous cous tabbouleh and a roast peppers-stuffed pitta (ÂŁ5.29), was, on hindsight, a feast too far, but all fresh, delicious and a good representation of what the menu has to offer.
The desserts are also homemade and brought in daily. Mini-portions of key lime pie, chocolate brownie and carrot cake were brought out to sample – all delightful. Breakfast/brunch is served all day, a big plus in the city centre, and the options are varied: crushed avocado, poached eggs and fresh chilli on thick toast or English muffins (£6.50), an oak-smoked bacon roll (only £3.50) or eggs benedict. Add a well-thought-out beverages menu with quirky soft drinks and quality coffee and tea suppliers; the emphasis is on offering over and above the norm, with good food, friendly staff and a consistent level of service. The only thing not in place yet – some big plants to help soften areas of the cavernous space – are, I am reliably informed, on the way.
Milk & Sugar is a perfect go-to space for a busy city centre: to relax and stretch out without being hassled and crowded, ideal for mothers with toddlers, as there is a user-friendlier area to hang out. Beautiful architecture and smack bang in the middle of everything, it’s an ideal destination for lunch and meetings too. Support your local independents who are becoming few and far between in the city centre: throw away your Starbucks cup and head to Milk & Sugar. Any one of them.
words ANTONIA LEVAY