North Dock, Llanelli. 01554 270020 / www.sosbanrestaurant.com
You cannot help but be impressed with the architecture of this Grade II listed building and former pump house, based in the former docks area of Llanelli. Thankfully, the transformation into a 100-cover restaurant has been done both beautifully and sympathetically, with high ceilings, modern furnishings and meticulous attention to detail.
When we arrived at 2pm on a sunny Saturday in October, the restaurant was incredibly busy with nearly every table occupied. During lunch and between 6-6.30pm there is an excellent set menu which consists of two courses for £14 or three for £16, and from looking around the room it was clear that this option was a popular choice. I too opted for this menu, simply because I’d already had my eye on the roast salmon main course which featured on the a la carte menu and also the set menu.
Our starters of the ham hock terrine (£7.50) and the goat’s cheese salad (from the set menu), were both delicious, but it was the main courses of roast salmon and Jerusalem artichoke puree (set menu) and the roast chicken Forestière, jus gras (£15.50) with a side of French beans (£3) that really stood out. Both dishes were absolutely incredible: my husband claimed it was the best chicken he’d ever tasted, and I said the same about the salmon. The chicken was succulent with intense flavour that was perfectly balanced with the jus, whilst my salmon was flaky, flavourful and moist and not at all oily.
Llanelli was somewhat lacking in great places to dine before Sosban’s arrival, so it’s a hugely important addition which has firmly placed the town on the Welsh dining map. This is especially true since Sosban’s recent AA Restaurant Of The Year award; after this it’s easy to see why. ANGHARAD BROWN